AHA - ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
IN WHICH CASES ARE AHA RECOMMENDED?
* Hyperkeratinization (increased accumulation of keratin and cell) extreme cases of
hyperkeratinization such as Seborrheic dermatitis (Seborrhea skin conditions which is excess flaking,
itching, scaling and redness afflicting either scalp or face due to an increase of the rate of production
of skin cells which buildup on the skin.
* Hyperpigmentation (brown spots, discoloration), dry sun damaged skins
* Xerosis (so-called "dry", rough, uneven skin, calloused skin)
* Wrinkles and fine lines
* Comedonal, Whiteheads and blemished skins
* Keratosis pilaris (are numerous tiny rough spots sometimes red and itchy usually on the arms but
may appear on the thighs, hands, eyebrows, cheeks or any other part of the body caused by
accumulation of old skin cells, this occurs mostly in the winter months when skin is more prone to
drynes and low humidity or after the summer months due to sun exposure.....(causing calloused skin)
WHAT ARE THE MAIN EFFECTS OF AHA ON THE SKIN?
* Refine the corneal layer by exfoliating accumulation of dead skin cells
* Accelerate cellular renewal
* Moisturize by stimulating the skin to produce hyaluronic acid, known for it's highly moisturizing
effect on the skin but to be effective the concentration should be 2% and up! * Reduce brown spots
* Even out and Brighten the complexion
* Make wrinkles a lot less visible
* Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars.. Some
examples are
Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Lactic Acid (Milk), Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits),
Malic Acid (Apples), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds).
* These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead
skin cells together to loosen dead cells from the skin, removal of this external barrier enables easier,
deeper penetration of other skin treatments as well clears oiliness and impurities, increases skin
hydration due to the natural moisturizing properties of AHAs and rejuvenates the skin.This increases
cell turnover and influences the structure of new stratum corneum being made. AHA has the potential
to help bleach unwanted skin discoloration. This results in skin that is more flexible,even in color,
more smooth, and more moisturized, making fine lines less visible while delaying the aging process.
Finally, they not only stimulate collagen production, but help plump up collagen and elastin fibers
within the skin. It is the basis of many acne therapy and skin rejuvenation!
*For all skin types except very sensitive skins and may be used by any age group (teenagers to
seniors)! If you are using aha creams or aha serums mechanical scrubs or other exfoliant products
may be used sparingly once in a while by some skin types OR EVERY TWO WEEKS if you feel
your skin is in need but most do not.. but be careful because over-exfoliating the skin is not
helpful and can cause problems such as irritation or a rash-like breakout.
*An effective concentration should contain at least 7-10% alpha hydroxy acid with a pH
between 2.5 and 4.0. A pH of up to 4.5 is acceptable on products with high concentrations of
20-25%. Products for use at home should never contain over 10 % alpha hydroxy acid,
anything over 10-15% a doctor's or professional supervision is required. Alpha hydroxy acids
do not thin the skin if used correctly!
* Remember one should always wear a sunscreen if one is using alpha hydroxy acids products
and going in the sun (which is not recommended because of possible sensitivities, this also
includes the cold and wind, the reason why I recommend to use AHA creams at night to
prevent any possible reaction/sensitivities to any harsh environment conditions) In the
summer one should always use sunblock if they will be outside!
* For some it is best at the beginning to use the aha cream every second or third night and
work up gradually to every night. Or you may wish to use the product every other night
throughout the treatment and alternate with another cream if your skin feels sensitive...
You may also dilute aha with your favorite skin moisturiser especially in the case of a more
sensitive/reactive skin, use half and half...... Some of my clients like to use aha cream 2-3
times weekly all year round as part of there exfoliation program....
* While using AHA creams it is normal to have some flaking occuring this is just the dead
skin cells being shed off! Also during the first few weeks some people may experience some
breakouts that is normal too due to the product eliminating impurities from the pores and a
sensation of warmth and light tingling may occur!!!
If you wish you can apply a moisturizer (optional) on top of the AHA over dry areas or use it
alone!
AHA are best used from several times a week (1-3) to daily. Use more often at first to remove
the buildup of accumulated dead cells and then to maintain cut back it's usage to what works for
your skin.
Extended application is important for results, but so is a rest period if you are using them
daily all year round. The AHAs are irritants, and work by dislodging the superficial layer of
the skin and encouraging a more rapid cell turnover. The skin needs time for repair. Usage
for the younger person or more sensitive/reactive skins should be every other night for six
months followed by a month without treatment, all year through. Frequency, and sometimes
strength, are increased for older people and those with more damaged skin, who need the
treatment more, in this case use product daily for 3-6 months then cut back usage to 1-3
days out of the week and alternate with another cream OR Continual daily usage has been
very well tolerated among some of my clients, with a a rest period using collagen cream until
jar is empty and then go back to USING aha, many of my clients do this during
spring/summer months or do when it's best for you...... then go back to aha in the
fall/winter/early sping months..... If you do use aha creams at night during the summer
months you need to wear a cream with spf during the day......
It is not recommended to use a serum under this cream!! use your serums with your day
cream when using aha... or use serums when you are not using aha..... but I do have to say I
have some clients who do use a serum with their aha cream without any problems, acheiving
great results, do what is right for your skin. If you use aha daily or 1-3 times weekly then
you do not need to exfoliate once weekly..... but I do have clients who do still exfoliate
using caution and do so once or twice a month to every other month or as needed...... I
recommend to use aha's at night. YOu can apply your favorite cream over it if you wish if
you feel you need extra moisture.....I recommend when you start using AHA , For the first
week you can use every other night and work up to daily the second week....For more
sensitive skins you may also dilute this cream by adding half of dose to your favorite cream
then apply to face...Great for 20s, 30s and 40s+ skins to tighten, helps stimulate collagen
production, exfoliate, seal in moisture and so much more
|
|