ACNE
INFORMATION
Acne erupts after oil secreted from the sebaceous glands mixes with dead skin cells and
debris, forming a pore-clogging plug. This plug, or comedo, traps oil and bacteria inside
the follicle.
A blemish has been forming under the skin for about 2-3 weeks before it appears to the
surface.

A lot of acne treatments are available to the public - even though their approaches differ
widely most of them work really well if you are willing to follow directions and be
consistant in their regimen . If you do not put the effort and time and stick  religiously
to a routine there's no product line that will help.
The guidance of a skin care professional  and/or reputable skin care products is a major  
advantage in dealing with acne!
Acne is treatable and you can control it.
It takes time and patience to deal with acne!
There is no quick fix! Also remember what works for one person may not work for you!
FIND A REPUTABLE FRAGRANCE FREE, hypoallegenic, color free, NON PORE
CLOGGING, PRODUCT LINE THAT YOU HAVE TRUST IN; SOMETHING THAT
WORKS FOR YOU that  DOES NOT IRRITATE YOUR SKIN AND STICK TO IT!

Some Reasons for Acne Flare ups:
~Puberty because of physiological changes, hormone levels are fluctuating
~Hormones during mensturation or menopause - low estrogen levels
~Diet -  Lack of a healthy diet may contribute to the level of the outbreak!!!
Reaction to Bromine usually found in chocolate and dark colored soft drinks.
This does not affect everyone because not every body reacts to bromine.  Some people
will get a breakout after eating an excessive amount of  chocolate!!!!!!!
~Improper Cleansing, using the wrong products or lack of and inappropriate cosmetic use!
~Stress, Nerves and Fatigue because it cause an increase in androgens (male hormone). It
is
not unusual to see students with breakouts during exams.
~Extra Sebum
Before concluding that a treatment/product does not work, give it 90
days of continuous, consistent use!
do not switch back and forth to different
products!
Dr. Renaud
FROM GERMANY
AmintAmed
ADULT ACNE
Affect 71% of women ages 25-49 at one point or another.
Harder to deal with due to the fact that older skins sheds and repairs
itself more slowly, dead cells sit on the surface longer which leads to
blackheads or whiteheads, the latter of which can turn red.
It may appear in a cluster, in a bumpy flush, or blemished and since adult
skin is often more sensitive and dry then teenagers it may require a gentler
approach using creamier products such as milk cleansers and using toner and
serums/concentrates once a day only if skin is easily irritated, but o.k. to
use milk cleansers twice daily if you wish to do so..... remember to do your
mask 1-2 times weekly to calm the skin and minimize surface oil and bacteria.

Adult acne is caused by the same way as teenage acne which erupt after oil
secreted from the sebaceous glads mixes with dead skin cells and debris,
forming a pore-clogging plug.
 
SOME SIDE EFFECTS THAY MAY BE EXPERIENCED FROM USING
PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION FOR YOUR ACNE

-fatigue                                           -skin pigmentation
-sensitivity of the skin                     -headaches
-dry lips                                          -dizziness
-nose bleeds                                  -upset stomach
-sore eyes
-backache
-depression

DARK OR RED PATCHES (erythematous macule) LEFT AFTER ACNE
OUTBREAK IS NORMAL THESE WILL USUALLY FADE WITHIN 4-6
MONTHS with a good skin care regimen
, vitamin c products and aha
(alpha hydroxy acids) products are very helpful
.... They occur due to
inflammation.

TRY TO STAY OUT OF THE SUN - THE SUN MAY CLEAR YOUR ACNE FOR A
WHILE BUT IT WILL COME BACK OVER TIME AND WILL BE WORST.....
 
MILIA (whiteheads)
Milia are deep seeded white bumps that form when skin cells and sebaceous matter become
trapped rather than exfoliate naturally. Milia can occur anywhere on the skin and are
prone around eye area and cheeks. As the surface is worn away, the tiny white bumps may
resolve on its own. Far too often, though, intervention to remove the cyst (white bump)
through extractions using a lancet may offer more rapid resolution. Best done by a
professional!!!!  Also some clients have had success applying
tea tree essential oil to the
whitehead with a qtip daily until it went away, and it did..... Tea tree oil applied with a
qtip daily is also good on boils.....
Exfoliation can go a long way in helping deal with milia prone skin. By keeping the
epidermis thin and smooth, you can cut down on their formation. By mentioning
exfoliation, I'm not talking about scrubbing off the top layer of your skin! One way is to
use a gentle exfoliating scrub 1-2 times a week another is to undergo a periodic series of
gentle peels
home or dr's and/or using aha (alpha hydroxy acid) or beta hydroxy acid
(salicylic acid) products like aha cleanser and toner, aha mask or peels, see
phyto sintesi
link for these and dr renaud and rosagraf also has agreat aha cream, retinols, vitamin c,
peels at home and regular use of clay masks can help remove unwanted surface debris and
cleanse the pores.  Having a regular skincare regimen will keep your pores clean.....

Milia can be caused by:
-  Heavy Skin Care Products: The most common reason for milia is from smothering your
skin with heavy skin care products for your skin type or poor quality product or even hair
care items. They  may prevent the sloughing of dead epidermal skin cells. I find that many
moisturisers with sunscreens or heavy sunscreens are culprits to this problem. The
eyelids are very thin and more likely to experience problems with milia due to cosmetics.
Re-evaluate your eye cream, make-up and eyelid make-up remover if you are finding this to
be a concern.
-  
Sun Exposure:  Due to cumulative sun exposure skin forms a thicker epidermis that
may make it far more difficult for skin cells to find their way out of the glands. And
thicker skin also makes for more road blocks in the pathway to exfoliation. This is where
peels (glycolic,pumpkin, bha or other)  really make a difference! This is another reason
why I do recommend to use aha creams after the summer months!
- Or maybe you just have the type of skin which has the inability to exfoliate
itself properly!
- Results have been seen by applying honey on milia as it helps to dissolve the top
layer of skin .

Blackheads
Is a plug of keratin and sebum within the follicle, frequently containing bacteria.
The dark appearance is due to the reaction of the oil to the air, and specks of
melanin. When the hair follicle is filled with an excess of oil from the sebaceous
glands and an accumulation of dead cells occurs, a blackhead forms and creates a
blockage at the mouth of the follicle. Treatment for blackhead and milia are pretty
much the same!

Enlarged Pores
It is usually determined and influenced to a degree by skin conditions.  Enlarged pores
can be made to appear smaller, but it is impossible to shrink follicles to the degree that
they are  almost invisible.  Blackheads are filled with grease deposits, dead cells, makeup
and other debris which fill and stretch the pores.  Once this material is removed by deep
cleansing, and the pores are kept cleaned out, they will tighten and be less visible.  
Although the skin will still have enlarged pores, they will not seem as large.
Pores may
be more visible simply due to lack of good skin grooming and poor exfoliation
.You need
to get on a consistent skincare regimen and routine such as daily cleansing and toning are
a must. A clay mask and exfoliant weekly will also help to deeply cleanse and tighten the
skin, getting facials regularaly, peelings all help tighten up the pores making them less
visible also the use of aha or bha products, vitamin c and a serums are very helpful as
using the right products for your skin, also some of my clients have seen great results
with decongestive gel.

Mature skin and Large Pores
This is due to the loss of skin elasticity and ageing. As skin is drawn down by gravity,
pores become more obvious not necessarily larger...
Keeping pores clean is the first thing you need to do if you want to make them less
noticeable and prevent them from increasing in size is, you can do this by thorough
cleansing with a quality cleanser and gentle exfoliating followed by a
face-lift/toning/firming mask done weekly....... At the beginning you may wish to do an
intense treatment of 2-3 times a week for a couple of weeks of exfoliation and masking
and then cut back to once a week to upkeep.... Also the use of toners which temporarily
tighten pores. and the use of firming/tightening products help to tighten skin thus making
pores less noticeable .... Alsoif you wish you can put a purifying mask on the large pore
areas only and use another moisturising/firming mask over the drier/normal areas.....

If the case is very extreme, there is the option of laser resurfacing. Either your
dermatologist or a plastic surgeon should do this. There is down time for healing,
moderate sensitivity and photosensitivity attached to this procedure, however, it does
really improve the quality, tone, texture and appearance of the skin.

Cholesterol Deposits
THESE LITTLE BUMPS LOOK LIKE MILIA BUT ARE MORE YELLOW  
WAXY TRANSPARENT IN COLOR !
 These may appear around eye area, forehead or
anyweheres on the skin.
This is usually an internal problem, change your diet and keep your cholesterol levels
balance (high level of fat in your blood). If they are small you may try AHA or Salicylic
Acid (BHA) creams, ACID PEELS or retinol, vitamin c products and essential oils;  may
help reduce there appearance or may help with minimizing them by helping the skin
exfoliate making them flatter or/and loosen content which will be reabsorbed in the body
. In time If they do not disapear or are big in size seek your doctor (dermatologist) for  
there removal either by laser or topical medication.     
Don't confuse them with
Skin Tags which are harmless overgrowth of skin
and are flesh color usually located on the neck, decolette, eyelids, armpits,
chest, groin and body folds.
The growths may be surgically removed by freezing, high
frequency electrodes used by estheticians, electrically burned off, cut off  or
pharmaceutical topical creams OR You may also use
Frankincense essential oil , to
eliminate skin tags, it takes a while (about 3 weeks), with one application per day to make
the skin tag shrink and fall off. some also suggest tea tree oil, I don't know as I have
not tried,  as I don't get skin tags but was told it works.  YOu may apply without
diluting but if your skin is sensitive you might have to dilute it with a carrier oil or
cream....
Or also now availabe on the market Dr. Scholl's Skin Tag Remover,
you can purchase this product at any drugstore or online.
Cholesterol Deposits
These may be very small
end of a pin needle or
slighlty flat to bigger like
in the picture. they are
more transparent in color
 then in the picture. The
picture shows all three,
flat, small and bigger.....
SKIN TAGS
HYPER-
PIGMENTATION/
DISCOLORATION
NEW
Dr. Renaud Brown
Spots/Discoloration/
Pigmentation
Treatment
First  and foremost I want to emphasize that it is long process to see result.. so
do not get discouraged!!! It can take from 3-6 months to see improvement and may
take up to a year for a cure treatment! You will have to be patient and consistent
and use a good skin care line!  If you are doing a bleaching treatment using products
especially for pigmentation I suggest after 3 months of continuous use to take a
break of 1 month in between treatments.
Make sure during these 3-6 months that continuous use of your serum OR any other
lightening products twice daily is very important.... unless using aha (alpha hydroxy acid)
cream then once daily.......
Please note  if your pigmentation is due to hormonal changes it can be a bigger
challenge to treat or keep pigmentation from reoccuring...... like acne skin you may
see outbreaks from time to time even after you have had success in treating
them..... meaning they may come and go...... but keep on treating and use products
to prevent, like serums and so on...... don't give up....... like acne it then becomes
more of keeping condition under control and not cure......

Sun/Age spots may be common, but they can be diminished and some even
prevented, by taking a bit of time to take care of your skin DAILY. the reason  I
suggest to my clients the best defense against all ageing problems is to adapt a skin
care routine and keep up with it........ don't go back and forth, do it all the time...
like brushing your teeth it is important to do it daily and perform special
treatments as for the dentist cleaning your teeth regularly to keep them there
whitest and prevent cavities as goes the same for exfoliating and using mask,
facials....
It is amazing the transformation/healing that the skin can acheive if it is really
cared for.....

INTENSE TREATMENTS SUCH AS Arbutin Whitening Cream TREATMENT
(opposite) OR DR. RENAUD LIGHTENING TREATMENT WORK REALLY WELL IN
TREATING PIGMENTATION.  

Most important 5 things you need to do to treat
discoloration...

1- You have to be on a Skin care routine/regimen - Cleanse-Tone-Treat/Repair
Damage with Super Antioxidant Serum or Lightening Treatment,
Moisturise-Exfoliate-Mask

2- Exfoliate, very important step, this is a must, aha, scrubs/peeling or any other
exfoliant
Remember you can also use Phytogel, ENZYMATIC PEELING AND ETC.. as your
exfoliator......Use scrubs 2-3 times weekly during treatment, then you may cut
back to once weekly. If you use aha creams or lightening treatment you do not need
to use an exfoliator.....

3- Use lightening treatment or powerful serum -  such as Vitamin C ,  Celeste, Pro
Retinol, Peptide Serums or your favorite lightening serum/cream, use twice daily
morning and evening during course of the treatment.

4-Moisturise -  Day cream with spf and Night cream like aha (if using a lightening
treatment do not need to use aha creams......, natigene, collagen, bio lift,
menoactive, hydrascience and so on or your favorite moisturiser......


5- Mask - according to skin type
Many clients have had great results with pigmentation with the use of aha cream
and pro retinol/celeste/vitamin c serum, using pro retinol/celeste/vitamin c serum in
the morning and aha cream at night!

Treatment Regimen
Morning                                                       Evening
-Cleanse or use Toner                                   -  Cleanse
-Apply C serum or Serum of choice (if using one)    - AHA cream or serum + night   
                                                               cream
or lightening treatemnt                                    or lightening treatment

If not using AHA cream  then apply serum morning and evening -  I do not
recommend to apply any serums with aha creams as many skin react to using a
serum and aha together.... but do have to admit that some clients have used both
at the same time with great results and no sensitivites, do what is best for your
skin.
-Day protection with spf                                                                       
                                                               
Use an exfoliating product 2-3 times a week  until treatment completed, if using
aha or lightening treatment daily no need to exfoliate.

-  Mask weekly

After treatment you can cut back the exfoliation regimen to once a week.....

Depending on skins or products using  treatments may last from 1 month to a year,
consult with your skincare specialist if unsure.....
Arbutin Whitening
Cream
Pigmentation
caused by sun
damage is due
to skin cells
being damaged
by the rays.
Ingredients that will help fade spots include Vitamin A, Peptides, AHA
(Alpha Hydroxy Acids), Azelic Acid, Kojic Acid, Vitamin C, Mulberry Extracts,
Saxifrage Extracts, Algae, Licorice Extracts, B vitamins such as Niacin, Kiwi,
Grapefruit and so on.... and of course Hydroquinone (a synthetic skin lightening
ingredient)available in strength of 2% OR 4% . Each ingredient has its strengths
and weaknesses. The most widely used and frequently prescribed ingredient is
hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is stronger than ingredients such as vitamin C and the
ones listed above so works quicker. Hydroquinone is a more agressive and fastest
way to treat discoloration and for some too strong so alternative products (above)
may be for you. Do not abuse or overuse hydroquinone because it can eventually
lead to skin lightening called hypopigmentation(white spots)and some researchers say
even cancer?.  If you chose hydroquinone,
(which I do not support/recommend,
there is a possible ban on this over the counter product in the near future due to
health/skin risks, may be available through prescription only )
limit its use to three
to four months (take a break for about two months then you can go back to it if
you wish).... and stop using the product once the desired result is achieved, making
sure to use sunscreen when you are outside or they will return.  I find many people
develop sensitivity with hydroquinone causing more discoloration overtime.....
one of
the reasons I prefer alternate natural slow acting treatments...
What I have seen
in my practice anyone using bleaching treatments kits is that the spots always come
back and more resurface......I find that they really sensitize the skin causing more
problems long term.... I am a true beleiver(see writing in pink below) in a consistant
skin care regimen or daily routine to take care of these and keep them from
returning or getting darker.... I have seen many great results this way but it does
take time and consistency...
This is my view on this matter..... do what you think is best for you....

For some people the skin to get worse before it gets better. Pigmentation that can not be
seen with the naked eye during the treatment may be pulled to the surface as will other
impurities in the skin so making it seem that your spots are getting worst or that you
have more of them but keep it up and the skin will start to improve shortly thereafter.

The topical synthetic lightening treatments will lighten quickly but will not permanently
alleviate the problem, every time one is exposed to UV radiation, the pigmentation will
return - the cells will turn darker with each exposure...... that is why I prefer the more
natural way.... meaning the use of natural extracts such as mulberry which you can find in
Dr. Renaud celeste serum and other vitamins mentionned above which you can find in Dr.
Renaud Pro-Retinol Serum, Pure serum, Bio-Lift Vitamin A cream and so on......, you can
visit my website for more information on these products. I like rotating the serums...
I
beleive that natural ingredients get to the source of the problem wich are
clustered melanocytes instead of a temporary solution as many synthetic ingredients
do - while this approach does not lighten quickly but will have long term lasting
effect by blocking the skin's reaction to the sun and prevent hyperpigment with
future sun exposure - however minimal that exposure is. It is a good idea to start
of the treatment with exfoliation, peelings and facials if possible.... it will work
quicker.... but please be patient - the results will vary from person to person
depending on the damage, age, your skin's metabolic rate. Some will see results
right away and then will stall and see no progress but don't give up this is a natural
occurance..... - the dermis varies in depth from person to person....

Hyperpigmentation results when the melanocytes produce too much melanin, usually from
too much sun exposure, although pregnancy, hormones, birth control pills, trauma to the
skin by overusing certain products or getting agressive peels, from acne, picking your
face and so on....Hydroquinone and other lightening products work by breaking up the
melanin, until it is too small to be seen with the naked eye. It is then brought to the
surface of the skin and sloughed off.

Discoloration can also be produced as a way of the skin protecting itself!!!!!!! I beleive if
you heal the skin with natural products then wonderful things will happen to your skin.....

During pregnancy many changes may occur to our skins - some may develop acneic
skin - some discolorations called pregnancy mask... these changes are natural due to the
hormonal changes occuring in the body.... I suggest that you take care of your skin by
doing your regular skincare regimen, use good products and visit your esthetician if this
is possible for you and keep your skin healthy which will then minimize these conditions....
due to constant hormone fluctuations postponing more agressive or long term treatment
for your discoloration or acne till the baby is born i an excellent idea ..... During
pregnancy is an important time for pampering and taking care of oneself!!!!


LINDA
Professional Esthetician/Skin Care Specialist with Diploma
 
Copyright  © 2008